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One example is that, in some cases, the movement on the springy carpet might help damp out higher-frequency resonances in the stand more effectively than being gripped by the floor.
From the explanations given above it seems reasonable to expect spikes on a speaker stand to be capable of having an effect. So what about cones between a speaker and its supporting stand? Engineers are often asked to produce flat surfaces. Ideally, if both the bottom of the speaker and the top of the stand are flat, they will make firm contact over a large area. The system would then be fairly stable, and would efficiently link forces and vibrations between the two. However if the bottom of the loudspeaker is curved then it might not remain stable on the stand.
The curvature shown on the diagram is exaggerated for the sake of clarity, but should indicate what would then happen. With a curved base, any sideways forces would cause the speaker to wobble back and forth on top of the stand. This means we can now remove the effect of the underside of the speaker not being flat, and the result may be stable again. Hence cones may improve the stability of the speaker-stand combination by removing any problems due to the surfaces not being flat.
In practice , however they may not always be required when used with decent loudspeakers and stands. The reason for this is that — although not perfectly flat — the surfaces of the speaker and stand may be flat enough that when they press together their elasticity allows them to deform and come into contact over most of the surfaces.
Hence in practice, the surfaces may often be flat enough for any imperfections not to matter. The result then might be some unwanted distortion due to the non-linearity of the contact forces. If this occurs, then compliant feet of some kind or a layer of soft material in between the two objects may be desirable to help ensure a more enduring contact.
An obvious problem with using spikes as considered above is that we end up with holes in the carpet and floorboards! The good news is that with narrow spikes, the holes in carpet tend to close up and become invisible when the stand is moved. However, wooden floors are less forgiving, and there is an obvious risk of damage that might sometimes be unacceptable. Hence we may allow the spikes to press onto the carpet but avoid pushing them hard enough so they drive through onto or into the floor.
By placing the spike on a small puck we make it impossible for the spike to contact the carpet or floor. This means we can't expect the combination to dig in as effectively as the spike would do by itself. The combined spike and puck then will tend to act as a narrow hard foot. For much the same theoretical reasons [ref 2] as before, the result is unlikely to effectively isolate or damp any vibrations, although the stand may be held less firmly than if the spikes can grip the floor.
Having said the above, using narrow feet might be useful in some cases. The weight and vibrational forces of the speaker will then be pressed onto a much smaller area of carpet assuming the pucks are above the carpet than if no feet or spikes are used. This may alter the effective stiffness of the carpet, and alter the ease with which the speaker may wobble, or lose vibrational energy.
When sitting on a concrete or stone floor it is unclear if a puck should be expected to do much in terms of vibrations.
It may just prevent the spikes from blunting themselves digging small holes in the floor. However, either way, this arrangement will lack the grip we might get with spikes driven into a wooden floor. In general, therefore, we should perhaps view pucks or washers with caution as their benefits may be cosmetic rather than acoustic.
Indeed, they may tend to defeat the purpose of fitting spikes at all. As usual, though, the results may depend upon the detailed circumstances! The effect of using spikes which do not penetrate the carpet even without a puck can, again, be expected to be much like using narrow feet.
It seems doubtful that they will isolate the stand from the floor. The results will depend upon how well if at all the spikes can grip the carpet without making holes.
They may, however, act like the cones under a speaker and provide a more stable seating when the surfaces are not flat. However there is no guarantee this impression would be the same in every case, or that you would agree with my preference, or indeed that I am not imagining the change it made! I can't say that I have ever had the feeling that spikes which do not drive through the carpet had any audible effect.
My own experience is that something like soft rubber feet bumper buttons , or felt feet are more effective for isolation purposes. This is quite soft and squidgy when you apply a steady pressure. However it is more elastic and springy when vibrated. A potential problem with Blu-tack is that it contains a solvent which may discolour or mark other materials if held in contact with them for a long time.
Hence it may not be suitable for long term use. Another alternative I have not seen suggested or recommended anywhere is the use of cut-up pieces of carpet tile. This tends to be a composite of a layer of a soft rubbery material with a fibrous layer. An advantage of these tiles is that they are cheap to buy, and easy to cut up into shapes. You can also stack them into piles of a few layers if you wish. Hence they are very convenient to experiment with if you wish explore any effects they may have.
Another advantage is that they are available in a variety of thicknesses, colours, and patterns. There needs to be a certain amount of distance between the floor or any other reflecting surface and your speakers to give you the best audio quality.
Ignoring this step might cause reverberations and distortions in the sound quality that will drastically reduce the overall sound of your music or movie experience. Most speaker spikes are instead screwed into the bottom of speaker stand, which is usually coupled to the speaker. The second half of speaker isolation spikes is the pad on which they sit. While the pad is not entirely necessary, you will find that it keeps your speaker stand in place during particularly heavy use and it also ensures that your floor is not damaged.
The primary use for speaker stand spikes is that they allow you to couple and decouple your speakers at the same time. Those of you who are newer to the domain of sound may be wondering what it means to couple or decouple your speakers; we will give a short overview of the physics at play.
When your speaker is playing, it creates forward and rearward movement. When the driver of your speaker moves forward, something needs to be pushed back to create an equal and opposite reaction to comply with the laws of physics. Since the speaker itself is usually too heavy or too well anchored to move backward just from the force of it playing, it will instead remain in place, but it will vibrate.
These vibrations which emanate from your speaker can disrupt the intended vibrations which are caused by the driver playing your music. These internal vibrations are not the only issue that you will have to worry about.
Your speaker will also be affected by the vibrations of your home or whatever it is that your speaker is sitting on. While coupling or decoupling your speaker can be accomplished in different ways, you will find that there are few better options than a good set of spikes. Spikes help keep your speakers coupled in the way that you want them to be and decoupled at the same time.
Coupling is responsible for diminishing the internal vibrations of your speaker and decoupling will help prevent the vibrations which come from the exterior environment. The spike is made of a different material from your speakers and speaker cabinets, so you will find that it helps isolate vibrations in both directions.
The pad of your spike will isolate vibrations that are beginning in the surrounding environment, such as from the floor. I'm glad to have taken that frustrating journey because it has helped me better the answer to this question, which is now deeper and longer than the original email exchange:. I'm always thinking about the way my studio looks as much as how good it sounds.
I have some monitor isolation pads that look okay but they're still foam. In my adventures online I saw people swearing by speaker spikes , and honestly they look amazing. But nobody could articulate exactly what they do or how they do it. And that makes me think it involves magical thinking. Are these legit or just another audiophile fantasy? Sean, that's a great question, and I agree, nobody in the audiophile world seems to be able to agree on what these spikes do or how they do it.
You also have the guys who sold their expensive ones because using a phone book or a rotten log from the backyard sounded better. Let me summarize the online conversation first for the sake of other readers. Speaker spikes are little cones that are used to separate your studio monitors or entertainment system speakers from the object they're resting on. The entire reason for doing this is to decouple the two structures so that vibrations can't pass between the two and affect the quality of the sound emanating from the speakers.
And that makes sense, because decoupling is isolating and that's obviously the purpose of the spikes based on their design. These spikes are shaped like cones that have a wide base and then reduce down to either a point or a ball bearing, and the purpose is to reduce the surface area of the points of contact between the spikes and the speaker.
Typically you'd use four of them to create a sturdy base, but some people swear using only three sounds better even though they risk their speakers toppling over. I hear if you make them out of compressed magical pixie dust it sounds even better! Now, at the same time you have audiophiles saying that the purpose of speaker spikes is to couple the speakers to the stands or desk surface. This is the exact opposite conclusion, and they support their arguments using analogies to football cleats that help a player get a better grip on the playing field.
I'm sure you can see why that's a poor analogy already. If the goal was to couple the monitors to the stands, then what you'd want is to increase the mass of both while increasing the contact surface area, and then put rubber bands around the two and stack some concrete on top. I'm not joking either. There are some extremely effective and legitimate methods of coupling speakers to a structure to avoid vibrations. But it's much easier and cheaper to decouple them, and that's why speaker spikes exist and take on the shape they do.
Their goal is the same as foam monitor isolation pads, to decouple so vibrations can't be passed around. The second point is why you have audiophiles swearing that spikes make their speakers sound better, worse, do nothing, make it not better or worse but just different, etc.
Most woofers are designed with heavy cabinets in mind that don't allow recoil from the woofers to vibrate the overall speaker, and the micro-vibrations that are left are taken into account in the design and shape of the cabinet. That's why decoupling creates a tighter bass response and a better stereo image, because speakers are designed to accommodate their own vibrations.
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