How long to incubate peafowl eggs - vdp

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When candling after a few days, a thin blood ring is recognizable in an otherwise clear egg. This is caused by the incubation temperature being too high or the egg being chilled. A stored egg that has been left too long can also cause early death. The two most likely causes for this are probably wrong temperature and possibly incorrect turning. Another reason could be infective bacteria. This can cause death at any time of incubation… It can cause death several days after incubation!

The only way to confirm this is to have the chick or egg sent for post mortem examination. This can also be caused by heavy inbreeding. Also, some characteristics in poultry such as tufts in Araucana chickens and the short leg gene in Japanese bantams are connected to lethal genes. This is the most common problem among incubation complications. Death in the shell results when a chick starts to breathe but dies before it can escape from the egg.

Death in the shell can be caused by several things such as wrong temperature, wrong humidity, wrong turning, and of course infectious disease. Start to look for your problem by the process of elimination. If you pretty well keep a check on the temperature then you know it is not the cause. Remember even if you had a temperature spike that it may have not killed the developing chick. It takes more than a few minutes at a higher temperature than normal before the developing chick is killed.

You may need to look at turning but if it was turned just like the other eggs then possibly turning can be ruled out also. If you candle the eggs regularly, you will know if turning is the problem by the amount of vein growth.

Just because some eggs were set at a certain humidity and hatched does not mean that all eggs take the same humidity. The humidity level in the incubator plays the biggest role in successful artificial incubation of peacock eggs.

This converts to a wet bulb temperature of 86 - 87 degrees F. The humidity level can be measured with a hygrometer or through the use of a wet bulb thermometer and a conversion chart. The humidity level can be adjusted by opening or closing the vents on an incubator to allow more or less air to enter and escape, if your unit comes with air vents.

The humidity level can also be adjusted by the use of a water pan in the incubator. The water evaporation is controlled by the surface area of water in the water pan. In other words, water will evaporate quicker from a large shallow water pan than from a smaller, deeper water pan, even if they contain the same amount of water.

The more water evaporating from the water pan, the higher the humidity level. It is important to prepare your peacock egg incubator ahead of time.

The first thing to do is to sanitize your incubator with an incubator disinfectant solution. Even if your incubator is new, I recommend cleaning before the first use, as well as before and after each subsequent use. Make sure that all of your components are working- your peacock egg turner will also need to be monitored to see if you need a replacement egg turner motor before you begin.

Now that the incubator is ready, it is time to set the eggs. You will lay the eggs on their sides in the incubating trays with the pointed end of the egg tipped slightly down. If you are turning by hand, make sure that you lightly mark each of the eggs so that you can ensure you turn every egg each time.

Use a crayon or pencil, never a permanent marker to mark your peacock eggs. If you are using an automatic turner, you may still want to mark your eggs so if you remove them for peacock egg candling, you will be able to place them back in the turner the right way.

Some experts recommend turning your egg completely over twice a day in addition to using the egg turners to increase your hatch rates. These problems should be fixed before eggs are set in the incubator. I have found through the years that the humidity level in the incubator plays the biggest role in successful artificial incubation of peafowl eggs. The humidity level can be measured with a hygrometer or through the use of a wet bulb thermometer and a conversion chart. The humidity level can be adjusted by opening or closing the vents on an incubator to allow more or less air to enter and escape.

The humidity level can also be adjusted by the use of a water pan in the incubator. The water evaporation is controlled by the surface area of water in the water pan. In other words, water will evaporate quicker from a large, shallow water pan than from a smaller, deeper water pan - even if they contain the same amount of water. The more water evaporating from the water pan, the higher the humidity level.

The placement of an incubator can make achieving the desired setting much easier or much more difficult. An incubator should be placed in an area where the temperature and humidity are fairly constant. A basement or a room that is heated and cooled is a good choice for the location of the incubator. An out building or barn that is not temperature and humidity controlled are poor choices because it is very difficult to get the incubator properly adjusted.

This is because of the large temperature and humidity swings that most areas experience during the incubation season. The preparations mentioned earlier should be done far enough ahead of time to allow for the proper adjustments to be made before it is time to set the eggs.

The last thing that I do before I set the first egg is to clean and fumigate the incubator. This insures that the incubator is free of harmful bacteria that can contaminate the eggs. The use of a separate hatcher will greatly reduce the chances of bacteria forming in the incubator because all of the mess and fluff associated with the chicks hatching is confined to the hatcher. The hatcher should be located in an area where it can be cleaned regularly to minimize the bacteria build-up in it.

Now that the incubator if ready, it is time to set the eggs.