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The film is then washed in water to stop the conversion process, and then washed again in several more baths to get rid of excess chemicals. The result, when dried, is a negative image.
After several more baths--and drying--your new photo print is ready to be picked up at your local drugstore. Thank you to David Ondrik of Indiana University for reviewing this episode's script. A Moment of Science is a daily audio podcast, public radio program and video series providing the scientific story behind some of life's most perplexing mysteries. Learn More ». Your ultimate visual guide to developing your own 35mm or film photos at home.
No darkroom or photo lab needed. Film is wonderful. There are few more rewarding things for a photographer than eagerly receiving your work back from the lab or the drug store, only to find that your shots are exactly as you intended them. Few things, that is, other than the pleasure of developing film yourself. The resurgent popularity of film is undeniable at this point. For photographers already working with film or those looking to take the leap, one of the biggest drawbacks has been dwindling film development resources worldwide.
Moreover, learning how to develop film at home by yourself will give you a better understanding of the process behind shooting analog photos. I strongly recommend beginning home developing with black and white film rolls, especially 35mm, as it is dramatically less complicated for beginners and requires less equipment to develop. Unlike with color developing both C41 and E6 , in which essentially all color developers work largely the same way, there is a myriad of developers for black and white film, and it can be difficult to decipher which one will work best for you.
There are minimal differences between liquid and powder; powder can be stored for longer periods and you can mix only part of the chemistry together for only as much developer as required. Deciding on which developer you use is largely a matter of personal taste and dependent on what you want out of your photographs. Solvent developers such as ID, D76, Perceptol, Microphen and XTOL, when mixed at stock or a weak dilution, provide fine grain and are forgiving enough to cover a wide range of exposures on a single roll of film.
To complicate things further, most fine-grain developers can be diluted at various strengths to increase sharpness, although this often comes at the cost of grain. Again, this is likely down to personal taste. Diluting provides more working solution for more film, but stock can usually be re-used up to ten times with increased development time.
Working solutions for development: fixer left bottle and developer right bottle. Both ID and D76 are widely regarded as industry standards and are the most accepting of a wide variety of development times and temperatures.
From my own experience, most different types of fixer and stop bath will work similarly. I generally use Ilford Rapid Fixer as instructed on the packaging and have had no problems with this. There are a few safety precautions you need to take before starting this development process. If you feel faint, dizzy or otherwise unwell, make sure to take a break or leave the room.
The liquids used in these photographs are for demonstrative purposes, but you should always make sure to use rubber gloves when handling potentially hazardous chemicals.
Working solutions of developer and fixer for one roll of 35mm film. Measure this using your digital thermometer. Measurements for the amount of chemistry required for different film types are usually located on the bottom of the developing tank. This is so you can twist the agitator, thereby moving the reel with the film inside on the inside through the developer and fixer while ensuring that all parts of the film consistently have access to fresh chemicals.
The center of the developing tank holds the reel in place and connects to the agitator to allow you to agitate the chemistry and ensure that the film constantly receives chemicals. Next, place the tank with film, center, lid, and agitator included , film, scissors and bottle opener inside the changing bag and ensure that it is fully zipped up and closed.
You want to make sure that the tank is light-tight during the entire film developing process. The next steps must take place blind inside the closed changing bag so the film is continuously in complete darkness. At no point until the film is wound on to the reel and then placed into the tank and the tank firmly closed can you open the changing bag.
Take the developing tank lid off and the reel out before applying your bottle opener to the top or bottom of your film canister. Unfurl the film from the spool before cutting the film at the end attached to the spool unless you want to accidentally cut into your undeveloped pictures.
The scissors and bottle opener are both used to open the film canister and cut the film from its spool within the canister. Next is the tricky part. Taking one end of the film fat end without the leader recommended , you need to feed it into the film reel.
This counts doubly when using film, which due to its larger size is more prone to bending and friction and is subsequently more difficult to wind. Once the film is wound, place your reel onto the center, firmly place the lid on the tank and ensure the agitator is placed in the developing tank lid.
You can now open the changing bag and remove the tank. The pre-wash step is to prevent air bubbles from forming on the film. Only open the canister in total darkness, or the film will become ruined!
Cut the tab off of the end of the film for easier loading. Take a pair of scissors and cut off the tab at the end of the film, making a straight edge on the film. Round the corners with the scissors to make loading into the tank easier. This can damage the first picture on the reel! Part 2. Turn off the lights or set up the dark bag. Make sure the room is pitch black, with no light coming in from windows, cracks in the door, or other light sources.
Load the film onto the developing spool. Slide the free end of the film into the spool, and roll the spool back and forth in both directions to wrap the rest of the film around the spool. Once the film is completely loaded into the roll, use the scissors cut the canister off of the film.
Ensure you only touch the film by the edges during this otherwise you can scratch your negatives. If this is your first time loading film, you may want to sacrifice a blank roll of film to practice in the light. Learning the mechanism for securing the film can be tricky, but a trial run can help.
Place the reel on the center column and secure the funnel cap. The roll of film should be contained within the tank and completely protected from any light. Make sure you screw the cap on tightly to prevent any light from leaking in, and then turn the lights on. In some cases, it will snap into place.
Part 3. Prepare your chemicals according to their directions if necessary. If you purchase powdered or undiluted chemicals, mix them with distilled water in the appropriate ratio, which will be labeled on the package.
Ensure that the chemicals are at the right temperature. Check the temperature of the chemical with your thermometer, and place the bottle in a bath of the appropriate temperature water if you need to raise or lower the temperature. However, if your chemicals are premixed, a water bath is the best way to change the temperature.
All of the chemicals should be around the same temperature to prevent a sudden temperature change, which can shock the film and ruin the images. Add the developer into the top of the developing tank until it is full. Tap the tank on a table times to dislodge any bubbles clinging to the film. Leave this to develop for the amount of time printed on the bottle, gently shaking the developing tank for 10 seconds every minute or so. If you want an image with less contrast, try shaking the tank for 15 seconds every 2 minutes.
Pour the developer out of the tank and rinse the film with stop bath. Leave the stop bath in the tank for the amount of time printed on the bottle, inverting the tank a few times. Normally, stop bath will only need to be in the tank for a few minutes to remove the remaining developer from the film. Remove the stop bath and pour the fixing solution into the tank. Invert the tank for 30 seconds, and tap it on the table to remove any bubbles.
Then, let the tank sit for the amount of time printed on the bottle of fixer before pouring it out. Most fixers are reusable, so you can pour the fixer into its original bottle for future use once the appropriate amount of time has elapsed. Rinse the film with distilled water to remove excess fixer.
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