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A bottle of white spirit. Metal scourers not wire wool as this might damage the wood surface. Clean dry rags. A bucket of warm water with a cap of washing detergent mixed in. Before you begin, it is important to prepare your workspace thoroughly. Ensure the room in which you are working is well ventilated. Windows and doors should be opened to allow air flow and you should also extinguish any open flames such as candles, an open fire or a gas fire.
Move the piece of furniture you're painting outdoors, if possible. Soak a rag with odorless -- or white -- mineral spirits and apply the solvent liberally to the painted surface. Rub off the wax with a pad of steel wool. Norhan Kreuzwieser Professional. How do you remove furniture wax before painting? Clean the Surface. Alhassan Massaguer Explainer. Do you have to seal chalk paint on furniture?
It is not advisable. The surface may look clean but it may not be deep down into the finish. Kandela Sudhakar Explainer. Do you have to sand chalk paint before waxing? The reason I prefer that, is to me- it is less effort. I typically will sand using or grit sandpaper or sand sponge. Merab Cobiella Explainer. Will white spirit remove wax? Clean with a rag soaked in turpentine or white spirit.
Unless every trace of wax is removed the new varnish coat will not adhere. Wanda Simeoni Pundit. Do I need to wax after chalk paint? However, like any project, chalk paint needs a protective finish. Using wax on your project after applying chalk paint provides that protective layer on your newly modified piece.
Image courtesy of YouTube. Using wax on your newly renovated chalk paint piece will provide a layer of protection. Gilda Voznesensky Pundit. Browse our case studies for a selection of the thousands of kitchens we have transformed since Ask a question. Homeowners DIY College lecturers apprentices tradesmen suppliers.
You are invited to print TP articles for your own reference. Beyond private use, you need permission. Can you paint Annie Sloan chalk paint straight on waxed pine? We receive regular questions about Annie Sloan chalk paint straight on waxed pine on our article about how to paint pine furniture , so thought I would post a recent conversation with a DIY painter looking to refurbish the proverbial orange pine furniture.
I have found your website which I hope will be very useful. But can I just check something — can I really paint over waxed furniture? I have a couple of wardrobes and drawers that would have been bare timber but I waxed them with briwax a few years ago. They are now starting to go that orangy colour!
Can I really just paint them with Annie Sloan paint, straight over them with no stripping? I do hope so! Also you mention sealing them with wax or varnish. I can see that you can get Annie Sloan wax when you buy the paint would this be best?
I would really rather paint the furniture then buy new as there is nothing wrong with it and it fits my very small room! You can paint 2 coats of AS on any clean slippy slidy surface, then wax it with 2 or 3 sparing coats of AS soft wax, then buff it up when dry.
A chalk paint production from Stratford-upon-Avon decorator, Charlie Budd. This dresser started life as a poorly varnished dresser, with runs and sags all over the place. So the worst was sanded flat then painted with chalk paint and waxed. Even a local pine specialist furniture maker swore up and down that it was impossible to paint over wax. But chalk paint seems to deliver every time.
I was chatting recently with Charlie Budd, a pro decorator in Stratford-on-Avon who has converted to Annie Sloan chalk paint, to the point that he has it on his cornflakes now.
I found out that the Annie Sloan varnish seems to have been withdrawn from the Annie Sloan range. I do recall another decorator saying that it was tricky finding the right varnish to recommend for chalk paint in different scenarios, so maybe they have just stuck with what works as a protector coat — clear soft wax.
It works for me and it should work for you. If it draws tannin through the first coat, use clear shellac to seal, and then second coat the piece with chalk paint. You can sand chalk paint perfectly smooth with abranet and dust extraction, or after first wax coat get it really silky smooth with no dust created.
This is a series of chalk paint articles that cover most eventualities and there is an article on solving bleed through. Hope that helps, and if you have any other questions, just ask over on the forum for hand painted furniture.
Good question! I know this paint sounds too good to be true, but coverage is not an issue with chalk paint in my experience. The actual painting is not stressful, in fact the first coat is a doddle over waxy or varnished surfaces, the chalk paint flies on.
You might look at how much you use on the first coat and think you may have over-ordered, but the first coat is chalky and absorbent, so you need or you might need to thin the second coat a touch.
As was mentioned elsewhere in this thread, using chalk paint as impasto is an option — leave the lid off and apply like a paste, with texture.
That would consume more paint than a couple of brush applied coats. I am saying painting is easy, but before you think the whole job is a doddle, bear in mind, the time is in the waxing and finishing. And painting one or two pieces of a furniture is a realistic DIY project, and you can achieve very good results. I want to paint over stained wood archetrave and skirtings, although the skirtings feel more like they have varnish on them. I have just completed my 4 th coat of matt emulsion on slightly embossed previously painted matt finish wallpaper.
Ask a tradesman. Like 2.
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